youngatheart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 09/03/05
Posts: 9394
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I know this has nothing to do with this board, but you are all so knowledgeable, i thought someone could help.
I'm currently working on cleaning up my credit report. I'd like to buy a home next summer. But, I'm still learning about this stuff.
There are three items with collection agencies. One is minimal...$44 from when Ex and I were married (2004). The second is also minimal...$30 from when Ex and I were married (also 2004). The other is $149 from post-divorce. How do I go about finding out what these debts were for? How do I get them off my credit report? Or at least get them from BAD to not-bad on my credit report?
Lastly, the trailer Ex and I had when we divorced was his to take in the divorce. He was to pay everything on it and he was awarded it in the divorce. But, he defaulted on it after he built his new house, and it was repo'd. It shows on my credit report as a charge-off. What the hell do I do about this one?
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matilda
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 11/11/04
Posts: 2087
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Don't pay them off until you fully understand the situation. Any new activity i.e. paying them off restarts the time frame that they can appear on your credit history. I would try to get the addresses of the creditors and see if they will agree to remove the negative history in exchange of payment. Make sure you get the agreement in WRITING before you do anything. Sometimes they will orally promises you the moon, then deny it was ever said later on.
Sadly the way the system works, it might be better just to let the bad debt fall off your credit history in a couple of years. Since it is old debt it won't hurt your score as much.
Did the creditor that was owed money on the trailer agree to make your ex solely responsible for the debt? The divorce settlement alone doesn't obligate the creditor to remove you from the debt obligation.
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youngatheart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 09/03/05
Posts: 9394
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No, the creditor on the trailer didn't agree to make Ex solely responsible. So, I'm on the hook for it. However, I know there are times when someone can get it off their credit. I do know that when I go for a mortgage, I'll likely have to go through manual underwriting because of that issue.
Also, my credit scores vary a LOT...from 578 with one to 580 with another and then 656 with another. I know it's because some people don't report to some agencies, but if they would view TransUnion, rather than the other two...that'd be GREAT! LOL
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preemiemom
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 01/17/07
Posts: 19391
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One or more of your delinquent accounts only appears on the two reports? And not on the Transunion? That would the most likely explanation for the variation.
The 2004 ones have another 3 years minimum before they fall off and that's if the 2004 is the date of last activity on the accounts, not necessarily the date the debt was incurred.
I have had items removed ENTIRELY; however, ONLY after they were paid in full. The items in question were a post-divorce situation and once they were paid, and I wrote and asked nicely for them to be removed, proving that they were paid, the creditors simply removed them.
I found this to be particularly true of judgements and/or medical claims that went to collections. Credit card companies? No such luck. SOL until the date of 7 years ran out. And the month it did, I was back on the phone with the creditor notifying them of the 7 years since the payoff and demanding they remove it from my credit (I'd tried unsuccessfully, for years, using my divorce decree showing the debt wasn't "mine", etc etc. No can do.).
If they are minimal amounts, and the creditors are small creditors I would contact them and see if they would agree to, upon payment in full, remove them from the credit bureau.
On the trailer? You're SOL. If you co-signed, and he never refi'd it after the divorce and he had sole ownership of it, then it'll stay on your credit for 7 years after the charge-off.
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youngatheart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 09/03/05
Posts: 9394
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So, basically, I can start with the smallest one on the credit report, and write that company and ask for them to agree, in writing to remove it from my credit report upon payment in full, and upon confirmation (in writing) from them, I pay it off. Then I move onto the next one on the credit report? Does that sound about right? I just found a fourth one on Equifax. It's for $239 from 2002 (married to Ex). NO idea what that is.
I figured I was screwed on the trailer. That will be 7 years old in 2013. Jack-ass Ex. I should file contempt against him after I do a mortgage next summer and ask for compensation based upon the higher interest rate. I KNOW...not going to happen, but it should. Jerk.
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preemiemom
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 01/17/07
Posts: 19391
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That's how I would approach it. I mean, I would follow what Matilda said too and find out WHAT it's for. And you could try to get them to provide proof that YOU signed for whatever it was. You could try getting out of them based on their failure to provide proof.
I should have asked this first.. Sorry, my "business brain" is kinda shut off for the weekend, lol. Have you disputed any of these yet? Through the credit bureau.
If you have NOT done that, you SHOULD do that first.
Simply dispute them using the "This isn't my account" reason. I've had THAT work too. Some other account, from ages ago, had it removed about 5 years ago. I called them and tried to find out what it was. THEY didn't have the account # from the credit bureau. I was like "ummm.. how can you continue to report an account DELINQUENT, if you don't have an account NUMBER to report against??? Needless to say, you'll agree that when (credit agency) contacts you, you'll be agreeing it should be removed??". Needless to say, they agreed.
I did a lot of "pre-emptive striking". I'd file a dispute with the credit bureau, then I'd call the creditor, find the department that does reporting, "heads up" them that the dispute was coming. I wasn't mean or anything, just a "hey, I think this is a mistake.. I've disputed it... maybe you know something I don't know" and then work it all out. In one or two cases, I DID owe a small amount, I agreed to pay for it over the phone, I paid it, when the dispute came in stating it wasn't my account or I didn't owe, they removed it. They want their money. You pay them their money, they'll remove it. Again, particularly if it's a small dollar amount like the two you mentioned. I think one of mine was $166.. and was an honest oversight. I had moved, I didn't get anything from them forwarded.. had no idea I owed it. Happy to pay it. THe other, I have no idea whether I paid it or not. I could have I couldn't have. It was like $50 and not worth quibbling over it. Here's your $50.. go fix my report.
Oh, another thing. If you have credit cards, make sure that your credit limit versus your amount owed is correct.
I have 3 Chase cards. Two report my credit limit correctly (2 either aren't used, or are used and paid off the day I charge, just to keep them active), the third I used because I got a 1.99% for life and balance transferred other card balances to it. Anyway, they constantly report the amount owed as the credit limit, showing me 100% utilized. EVERY month I dispute it. And every month I get a LITTLE bit closer to the credit limit being what it actually is. I owe $8K on it, it now shows credit limit at $14K. Over 50% utilized.. a credit score "hit". Limit is ACTUALLY $20K, making it UNDER 50% utilized. 5th month in a row, reporting is being disputed. I've called Chase directly every month and cannot get them to explain to me why ONE credit card company, reporting on THREE cards, gets TWO right, and one WRONG. No explanation, but it happens.
Just another thing to check as since they've changed how scoring works as of this spring, utilization over 50% can actually hurt more than slow pays.
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youngatheart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 09/03/05
Posts: 9394
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I just got my first credit card EVER! It's not a great credit card. I have an annual fee, I have a monthly charge. I'll do that for 6-months or so and then see what's out there. I'm basically just using it for gas purchases,and then paying off the balance each month to show that I can and will pay off revolving credit. Having NO revolving credit was KILLING me on my score which is why I decided to do it.
So, how do I go about disputing an item on my credit report? Can I dispute everything? And what does it take to dispute it?
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preemiemom
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 01/17/07
Posts: 19391
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Where/how did you get your credit report?
You are entitled to one a year, free (I think.. don't quote me on that though.. I know in NY you are), from each credit agency.
Even if not.. if you have your bureau, you can dispute directly through each credit bureau. Either through their website, or by calling them by telephone.
I'll find the links and post them.
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preemiemom
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 01/17/07
Posts: 19391
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http://www.equifax.com/answers/correct-credit-report-errors/en_cp
There is also a hyperlink to get a free credit report.
More info:
To dispute your Equifax credit file by mail:
Write to:
Equifax Information Services, LLC
P.O. Box 740256
Atlanta,GA 30374
Dispute Form When should I dispute by mail?
If you do not have a 10-digit Report Confirmation Number.
If documentation is needed to support your dispute and you do not have access to a fax machine.
If we are unable to process your request online
If you prefer to track the dispute through certified mail
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dispute FAQs
Questions we hear. Answers you need.
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What is a Report Confirmation Number and how do I use it?Your Report Confirmation Number can be found at the top of your Equifax credit report. It is used to help you initiate a phone dispute of your credit file information. We request it for an online dispute, but it is not required. This number allows Equifax to more easily access your credit file. Please keep this number for your records.What if my credit report does not have a Report Confirmation Number?You may initiate a dispute online or by mail without a Report Confirmation Number. However, if you would like to dispute by phone a Confirmation number is required. Access a free online copy of your Equifax credit report.Why can't I dispute everything online?Supporting documentation is needed for some disputes, such as name, address, and updates to your Social Security Number, which can not be provided to us online.How can I talk to a live person to dispute information in my credit report?You will need to have a recent copy of your Equifax credit report with the Report Confirmation Number to talk to a live representative. A phone number will be included in your Equifax credit report that will give you access to a live phone agent. Access a free online copy of your Equifax credit report.How long does it take to get a resolution to my dispute?It can take up to 30-45 days depending on the nature of your dispute and whether the dispute is of information in a credit report other than your FACT Act free annual disclosure report . If the dispute is with information in your FACT Act free annual disclosure report this can take up to 45 days. Otherwise, your dispute should be resolved in 30 days. However, your dispute response may be available prior to 30 days depending on the nature of the dispute and the response time from any creditors that are contacted.How can I check the status of my dispute?Within a month of your dispute request, either Equifax or CSC Credit Services (depending on who owns your credit file) should notify you of the results of its dispute reinvestigation and provide you with a credit file reflecting the results of the reinvestigation at no charge. You should examine it carefully to see if information you disputed has been changed or removed. If information you disputed has been re-verified it will remain in your credit file, but you can request that it be shown as disputed and you can add a statement of explanation to your credit file. If you dispute online, you may check the status of your dispute by clicking here and entering your Confirmation Number.Who is CSC Credit Services?CSC Credit Services is a separate company, not owned by Equifax, which operates locally in some parts of the country. Similar to Equifax, CSC Credit Services owns credit files and they are reported through the Equifax credit reporting system. If your file is owned by CSC Credit Services you should initiate your dispute activity directly with CSC Credit Services.
For a dispute write to:
CSC Credit Services
PO Box 619054
Dallas, TX 75261-9054
For a fraud dispute write to:
CSC Credit Services
PO Box 619046
Dallas, TX 75261-9046
What are my rights under the federal Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA)?You can learn about your credit rights and responsibilities under the FCRA at this link
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preemiemom
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 01/17/07
Posts: 19391
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http://www.experian.com/disputes2/index.html
Dispute Basics:
We recommend you review your credit report carefully for accuracy because important decisions about your creditworthiness are based on the information in your report. If you find information that you believe is inaccurate or incomplete, then you have the right to dispute it free of charge.
To request a dispute you first need a copy of your Experian credit report. Order online and receive immediate access to your credit report.
The Dispute process
Experian collects and organizes information about you and your credit history from public records, your creditors and other reliable sources. If you dispute an item in your report that you feel is inaccurate, then we'll contact the source of the information and ask them to check their records to verify it. Within 30 days, the source must respond to our investigation. They may verify the item as accurate, or they may ask Experian to update or correct the item.
We'll send you an email notice alerting you when the results of your dispute are ready to be viewed online and a link to your results, if you request online delivery when you dispute. It's the fastest way to know the results of your investigation!
Sometimes investigations don't take the full 30 days. You can check the status of your dispute investigation at any time to see what progress has been made.
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